How We De-Worm Without Harm

When I was taking classes in Chinese herbology, the teacher stressed the necessity of taking minerals to ward off parasite infestation. Come to find out, parasites, especially worms, hate minerals. But the body loves them. Good to know, I thought. I decided to test this out when my kids were young. One Spring I did a worm detox program for the whole family. Everyone got a recommended dose of colloidal minerals with their meals. Thats easy enough I thought. Few complaints. It worked so well that I was a little shocked. Who knew. I had to keep telling myself …and the kids, “its better they are out then in, right?!” 

On the topic of the dogs’ hearts, Martin Zucker, DVM, says “Many dogs grow old before their time with weakening hearts …” He quotes Robert Goldstein, VMD as stating “The problem has become increasingly prevalent at younger ages. Seven or eight is not uncommon…” He explains that he believes the trend is “largely due to poor-quality nutrition, unnecessary vaccines, and exposure to environmental and chemical pollutants…”

What about heartworms? According to Dr. Zucker there are a number of tests your veterinarian can do to test for the presence of heartworms. What you choose to do with that information is up to you. When our collies got heartworm all of those years ago I didn’t know about supplements for dogs, only people. Nor did I even think for a moment about kibble being an insufficient “food” for them. Praise God, I know better now. What we did for our collies when they got heartworms was a homeopathic remedy to support their body in knowing to eliminate the worms, and for us it worked quickly. No more heartworms, and they had antibodies to protect in the future. 

We have different dogs now and I do both prevention and occasional deworming with homeopathy. I want my dogs protected from both angles. In many of the holistic veterinarian books they suggest you give the desired homeopathic remedy several times a day for 5-7 days, to help the dogs body know to kill off worms that are present. Then you give the remedy 1-2 times monthly for a year. After a year, you reduce it to one to two times a year. 

The nice thing about homeopathy and the use of minerals as a supplement to the diet, is that its a win, win. Many of them are now made for dogs so they are easy to give, and they support optimum health. The only downfall is finding a veterinarian who knows anything about nutrition and homeopathy.

However, there are a number of books by veterinarians who have turned to a more natural, healthy way of caring for animals (see list below), which includes being educated on nutrition. If you feel you need a vet to guide you in this direction, I would start by looking online for one. There are a number of good, knowledgable veterinarians that will work with you via internet and skyping. They can even order blood tests from vet offices in your area for your dog and have it sent to them. One thing I did at the recommendation of a friend, was subscribing to Dogs Naturally Magazine. This is a magazine full of good information about dogs, their diet, health, even training. In addition to the information, is a list of natural veterinarians you can contact for nutrition support, natural remedies, and other alternative help with your pet.

Here is a list of support I have found in books and online:

  1. Diatomaceous earth, food grade in pen and play areas. 
  2. Extra minerals added to water and/or food to support the body in the natural elimination of worms.
  3. Deworming products from or other reputable animal supply store
  4. Homeopet WRM Clear homeopathic drops
  5. Dog dewormer combination formula, generally considered safe for puppies, that you can make yourself: Purchase health food store quality extracts for best quality and effectiveness: Crampbark, Wild yam, Dill weed, Cloves, Rosemary leaf, Colloidal silver, and purified water. 
  6. General canine parasites and worm dietary supplements: Raw eggs, organic grass (they eat as needed as long as they have access), dill seed, rosemary, clove, spirulina
  7. Spikenard extract has been used for worms following the rabies, parvo, and lymes vaccines
  8. Raw, organic farm fresh eggs have been used for tapeworm, liver flukes, and the worms following the distemper vaccine 
  9. Gravel root extract has been used for the worms from the rabies vaccine, and parvo vaccine 
  10. Allow dogs to eat organic (non-sprayed) grass, as this is a natural dewormer
  11. Multi-glandular supplement to support normal function of the organs and glands
  12. Consider getting titers on dog before revaccinating

Why We Use Homeopathy Instead

What is homeopathy? It is a very successful system of medicine based on treating like with like, referred to as the Law of Similars. 

Homeopathy uses super dilute forms of substances they call remedies, to address symptoms. The remedies are so dilute that some conventional doctors think they can’t possibly work. Dr. Hahnemann on the other hand, felt that medicines should be given in dilute amounts, just enough to illicit a reaction, but not enough to poison the system. After years of practice and research, he developed homeopathy. It turned out to be a very safe and effective form of medicine. The more dilute a homeopathic medicine is, the more effective it is in treating illness. I am always amazed at God’s creation and how the body works. 

How do you choose the right remedy? The homeopathic books tell us that you always want to take a remedy that would also cause similar symptoms if you took it in its whole form. For example, if you had poison ivy on your arm, you would take the remedy made from dilute poison ivy. Or from a substance that in its original form would cause symptoms similar to poison ivy. When taken by mouth, the remedy alerts the immune system to address the (like) symptoms that are already in, or on, the body. In this case, poison ivy. This is how life-long, immune-fighting memories are made. It is in the mouth, sinuses and skin, not the muscle, where the natural cell mediated immune response takes place. No need for boosters either. 

In the Dog World

Lyssinum (made from rabies) is a remedy used to treat hysteria, fear of water, salivation, and hypersensitivity. Its also used to address rabies vaccine side-effects. Some natural-minded veterinarians give it after having to give a rabies vaccine to any animal. This helps to reduce the severity of the vaccine’s side-effects. Phytolacca (poke root) is a homeopathic used to address lactation imbalances including soreness, fever, nausea, red hot areas of the breasts, infections of the breasts. And it works this way because in its whole form, poke root causes these same symptoms. Nystatin, a common antibiotic, is given in homeopathic form to address things like skin disorders, itching, dry and severe skin disorders, hair disorders, and other symptoms commonly associated with the antibiotics. Pyrogenium is a homeopathic remedy holistic breeders give their dogs when they suspect a uterine infection. The homeopathic Materia Medica tells us it is for offensive discharges, infections, pus, septic fever, and the like. This remedy is made from rotten meat pus. Ew!! Are you following their line of thinking now? It is so amazing and mind-blowing, and there are thousands of remedies available for use. 

Other Benefits

When one is unable to use nutrients appropriately, the nutrient can be taken as a homeopathic remedy and it supports the body’s ability to once again use that nutrient. For example, when my friend had a dog with obvious hip problems, and the vet said it was dysplasic, her Naturopath suggested a Vitamin C remedy. You see, vitamin C as a homeopathic remedy is used to address issues with the joints and especially the hips. The is because when the body is unable to use vitamin C it can’t make collagen for the joints. In one week’s time the dog could run and jump like he never had before, and it continued to improve until the vet said the dog’s hips looked completely normal. 

What about taking a homeopathic remedy to build immunity to a virus, bacteria or pathogen before getting exposed? 

This is something many people prefer the natural way for in order to avoid potentially dangerous side-effects of vaccines. The remedies we use for this purpose are called nosodes. I call it “doing it God’s way,” because it goes in the mouth, or on the skin like a natural bacteria, virus, or pathogen would. Nosodes, because they are put in the mouth, activate the cell mediated immune response, thereby activating fighter cells to attack and kill-off the perceived invader. There is no need to add any dangerous chemicals, toxins, preservatives or solvents to them. Plus, there are no mutated versions of anything in it. Just the real stuff. The immune system knows what it is and responds to it accordingly, and the fight is on. The nosodes win, of course, because they are only a super dilute form that was put in the mouth. 

I personally have used nosodes for my family of five children and myself for three decades and was always pleased with the results. In one case, one of our children who went to Africa on a mission trip, was encouraged to get the malaria vaccine. He was going with a group of 18 other young adults from around the country. None of whom he knew ahead of time. Our child was the only person of the group that didn’t get the malaria vaccine. Instead, he chose to take the malaria nosode. In the 9 weeks they were in Africa, he was the only person that didn’t contract malaria. All 18 of the vaccinated people who went, and had gotten the vaccine, got malaria. One young man even got malaria twice during his time there.

Harvard medical doctor Andrew Weil, M.D., when writing about homeopathy in his book Health and Healing, said “Its disciples (homeopathic doctors) were meticulous observers of …first, do no harm… They were concerned with patients as individuals. They aimed to cure disease from within, at its source, not just suppress symptoms. Best of all, their method worked, even for the gravest infectious illnesses… What followed, predictably, was a desperate struggle by the allopaths (conventional doctors) to regain their lost prestige and controlnot only did they hate homeopathy because it was gentle and effective, but it also had no side-effects. Weil went on to describe how the allopathic medical association (AMA) had a deeper issue within their own ranks – some of their own doctors preferred homeopathy. This, they felt, had to be aggressively stopped or homeopathy would spread once again. What followed was the AMA’s attempt “to put out of business competitors who attempted to heal the sick with gentler methods” and “the AMA began to bring charges against (their own) allopaths who were found to have consulted with homeopaths.

The Making of a Remedy

Homeopathic preparations, called remedies, are prepared by a unique process called “potentization” referring to a method of dilution and continual shaking. This is done by mixing a base substance (such as bee venom) with 9 drops of distilled water, alcohol or lactose sugar. Or, for a more potent remedy, one part is mixed with 99 parts of the water, alcohol, or lactose sugar. Then one part of this is taken out and mixed with another 9 or 99 parts of the water, sugar, or alcohol. This process is repeated anywhere from three times to several thousand times. The standard levels of potentization include 3, 6, 12, 30, 200, 1,000, 10,000, 50,000, 100,000 or 500,000. These are marked “C” or “X”, depending on whether they were diluted with 9 parts (an X potency) or 99 parts (a C potency) of the water, alcohol, or lactose. 


Nature’s Materia Medica, Third Edition, Robin Murphy, ND

The Veterinarians’ Guide to Natural Remedies for Dogs, Martin Zucker

Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, Second Edition, Wendy Volhard and Kerry Brown, DVM

Homeopathic Care for Cats and Dogs, Don Hamilton, DVM

Dr. Pitcairn’s Complete Guide to Natural Health for Cats & Dogs, Richard H. Pitcairn, DVM, PhD

Going for Walks with Your Dog

Paw care

According to Dr. Marty Goldstein, it is never a good idea to take your dog for a walk on a hot sidewalk or black asphalt without first testing it. Your shoes protect you, but paw pads can suffer from the heat. He suggests before going for a walk on a hot day, that you press your hand against the pavement to test the heat. If you can’t do this comfortably for at least 5-7 seconds, it’s too hot for your dog’s paws.

Generally dogs should not be in the sun for any more then short periods of time, and the best time to walk your dog is before 11:00 a.m and after 4:00 p.m. Dr. Goldstein suggests that to avoid heat exhaustion, make sure your dog has access to water and a shady spot to rest. Even with these cautions, watch for excessive panting, and if your dog seems to be showing signs of lethargy, or exhaustion. If this happens you should cool them down as quickly as you can and provide them with cool water to drink. If you are still concerned, he suggests you take him to a vet to be checked out.

Another issue that has become more common in recent years is poisoning by lawn chemicals. This is something few people think about, yet skin problems and paw chewing, both a sign of chemical exposure, have become one of the leading causes as to why people take their dogs to the vet.

Even with rain and/or watering treated grass, the ground that is chemically treated may be unsafe for puppies and young children for as long as two years. To test for safety, a soil sample can be tested by your state. Contact your state Agricultural department to find out where to send it in your state.

Dog paws can get damaged in the winter, too. If your dog is like mine, they love the snow and cold temperatures and want to stay out for long periods of time. Just like children though, they should be monitored with care and brought in where they have shelter as soon as they appear to be getting cold. Short walks are harmless, but overexposure can lead to frostbite. If you plan on being out in the snow for a long time with your dog, you might want to consider purchasing dog boots.

Puppy Training Tips

Every Interaction is an Opportunity to Teach

Have you ever had a puppy bite at your hand? It’s not meant to be harmful! Think of your puppy’s mouth as his third hand. But even more then a hand, it’s their dominate hand. If you watch puppies play, you’ll notice they grab each other with their teeth. I have learned to stay clear when my dogs are playing around me because there are times when one of the young ones wants to add me into their games and grabs my hand with their teeth. Even though they don’t mean to hurt me, my thin human skin isn’t made to take sharp puppy teeth, regardless of how soft they grab me.

A yelp or a loud, high pitched ouch (the human version of a puppy yelp) is what puppies and young dogs do to let another dog know they bit them too hard and need to lighten up. By doing this, you are telling them in their own language that their bite hurts you. Do this as often as necessary until the biting stops, which is usually within a day or two. 

If your puppy seems to want to chew on everything in sight, including your socks, shoes and clothing, this is normal. This will be part of his life for the first several months, and for some breeds, even longer. Should you allow it? NO. Puppies can be quite destructive if allowed to be.

Chewing On Everything

It is best to keep things out of puppy reach until they get older, but it is also important to stop bad habits as soon as they begin. For example, don’t let your puppy chew on your shoes and socks even when it is cute. If you don’t take this opportunity to teach them as a young puppy then they may grow up thinking it is allowable. Create a command to say every time the puppy is reaching for something they shouldn’t such as “Leave It.” Using this command consistently followed by removing an object not allowed reinforces the behavior to leave something alone in the first place. The same goes for anything that is within their reach that you don’t want them to chew on. 

For some breeds, it is helpful to feed them their biggest meal in the morning so their stomach is satisfied most of the day. This will reduce the temptation to eat non-edible objects, like your socks and shoes. Keep in mind that if he was outside or in the wild, he would naturally chew on and eat anything he sees. For a puppy its not just teething, its learning about his environment and filling his hungry tummy.

What can puppies chew on? Having their own chew toys and sticks will help both of you adjust to this phase of life. I have found that in general, when a dog is given an option, they will turn down chew toys that have chemical additives, stinky plastic parts, have been bleached, are too hard, or are in any way harmful to them. At the same time, I have seen hungry dogs who will eat all of these things to fill their hurting, hungry stomach. Ensure your puppy is getting the proper amount of food at meal time to prevent chewing triggered by hunger.

Favorite Chews

After spending a lot of money over the years on various toys and chew sticks for my dogs, as well as researching their safety, I have come down to only three things I give my dogs to chew on. Not only because these are safe, but also because they are the only chew things my dogs like:

  • The first one is the Castor and Pollux Good Buddy USA rawhide sticks. The rawhides aren’t bleached, chemically treated and have been flavored naturally.
  • The second option is more of a food. Its raw, organic bones. My dogs love these. You can purchase these from a local butcher.
  • The third item is sticks that I pick up off the ground after they have fallen from a tree on our land. These are a treat for them, but be warned, they make a mess.

These are all we give to our dogs. It doesn’t have to be complicated or costly, just safe and chewable.

Bringing Your Puppy Home

Some Helpful Tips to Make a Smooth(er) Transition

All Things Feeding & Chewing

Food: While at Doodles and Poodles Naturally, your puppy has most recently been eating Blue Wilderness brand puppy food with chicken. If you decide to change foods at any time, it’s important to make this transition gradually, especially for a puppy, adding a little bit of new food to their older food each day until you’ve made a complete switch. Your puppy has been enjoying their meals along with their siblings, so it is very hard to be sure of exactly how much they eat until they are on their own. Fortunately, you can consult your dog food label for suggested amounts by age and weight. You can also notice whether your puppy leaves some food in the bowl after meals. If so, you can cut the feeding amount back a tiny bit, but be sure to increase it gradually as your puppy grows. They will have a lot of growth spurts during their first year, and they can even have growth spurts for up to two years of age.

Treats: Treats are loads of fun, but should not be loads of food. Try and keep treating to a minimum in your puppy’s diet. Consult labels for store bought treats for suggested amounts by age and weight. For things like table scraps, consider whether the puppy would be eating anything like this as a canine in the wild, and limit accordingly. The more natural and meaty the treat the better. Some doggies enjoy fresh fruit and vegetables. (NO GRAPES! Sprays used on grapes, even some “organic grapes” can be very toxic for dogs.) Always notice what happens to your puppy’s stools and energy when they try a new treat. How does it sit with their digestive tract? Not so good? They might need to take in less of it at a time, wait until they’re older to enjoy that treat, or skip that one entirely.

Label Check: Check labels and don’t be misled by deceptive advertising. There are unfortunately a number of junk food treats and kibbles made for puppies and dogs. You will learn by reading labels, trial and error, and perhaps doing a bit of reading and sleuthing, what treats and food your puppy really loves and does well with. Notice how their coat, energy, teeth and stools are all reacting to their diet. They should have lots of energy, regular stools, shiny coats, and white teeth. We strongly suggest feeding treats and food that are grain-free and also very low in starch.

How Often to Feed: Your puppy eats 3 times a day. Currently, your puppy eats breakfast early in the morning (about 6 or 7am), lunch at about 11am, and their last meal is at 4pm. To avoid accidents, we suggest not feeding them after 4pm and no water after 6pm. Water should be available pretty much all day until you remove it, usually about 2 hours before bedtime. This will help prevent a lot of wake-ups at night to pee and poo.

Chew Bones & Toys: Natural, safe chew bones are great for helping puppies teethe, providing entertainment for kennel time with you nearby, and cutting teeth without chewing on hands and non-dog-toys. We like the Castor & Pollux brand, Good Buddy natural rawhides. Don’t overdo these rawhides or chew bones. Check the packaging for suggested amounts, provide plenty of water with them, and take a break from them for a couple of days if stools seem loose. Don’t resume until stools completely normalize. You can also supply non-toxic chew toys that are not consumed. It’s important to watch your puppy when they have a rawhide or other chew bone, as they could choke if they bite off too much at once.

Keep your eye on your puppy if they have a stuffed toy or any new toy to assure that they are not actually eating it. Toy and bed stuffing and other toy pieces do often pass through a dog’s stools, but they can create a blockage, and it’s not really food, so it’s best not to be eaten.

Crate & House Training

Crate Training: If you choose to crate train, and we suggest you do to avoid accidents or chewed up toys that aren’t for the puppy, as well as to support general sanity for all of your household, it’s important to make the crate a safe, positive space, and not a space where your puppy feels like they are being punished or bored to death. The crate should be just big enough for them to stand up, turn around, and lay down. Any bigger than this and puppies tend to find a “corner” they can go eliminate in. They have an instinct to avoid eliminating in their own bed space. If you want to get a bigger crate to start with so that your puppy can grow into it, many crates have dividers you can use to adjust as your puppy grows. 

Here is a link to watch a little video that talks about controlling your environment when you bring a puppy into the home, and specifically about crate training. 

House Training: House training is easier than you think – especially if you incorporate crate training at the same time. Celebrate progress and remember that your puppy may not do perfectly at first, but with your consistency and positive reinforcement, they’ll become accident-free. Here is a link to a helpful video on potty training your puppy during the day. 

Getting Through the Night

Maybe we should have started here. Don’t worry, nights of interrupted sleep won’t last forever! Your puppy is growing fast, but they are still a baby and they will need to go to the bathroom at night, but this will not last very long, FAR less than for human babies. 

What to Expect for Sleeping: The length of time between waking up to go to the bathroom continues to lengthen as your puppy ages and eventually it becomes a thing of the past. You’ll need to know what to expect to avoid accidents or causing your puppy to “hold it” for too long.

Here is some extra info to help you plan for getting through the night with your puppy, including what is normal regarding your expectations for how long they can hold their bladder, poo, etc. as they develop. 

Evening Potty Time: In the evenings, it’s a good idea to let your puppy out as late as you can within your sleep schedule. You might have to carry them outside and wait for them to pee and maybe poo, you may even have to wake them a little to get them going. After they go, or it becomes apparent that they are not going to wake up to go, carry them back inside and gently place them directly into their crate for bedtime.  Avoiding Crazy Early Mornings: When your puppy wakes up in the morning earlier than you want them to, pick them up and carry them outside to do their potty and poo business, then carry them back inside and put them in their crate or other controlled space. Don’t talk to your puppy or play with them at this time. That will let them know that this is not playtime yet, and it will help you to set up good habits for the future when they do sleep through the night. They’ll quickly learn to get up for the day on your daily schedule.

Guide to Breeding a Healthy Litter

Natural puppy rearing starts with making sure their mother has an exemplary diet before conception, during pregnancy, and while nursing. This will ensure a good whelping (birth) experience, healthy puppies, and a good foundation for growing into strong, healthy, happy dogs.

While we do attend the whelping process of our dogs, assisting them as needed, we avoid with unnecessarily interfering as much as possible the first week. During the second week, even before puppies have opened their eyes, we begin the Puppy Culture program on the puppies. This is a program that focuses on neurological stimulation to help naturally increase nerve and brain health.

Early Neurological Stimulation

When puppies are in their second week of life they respond in a very interesting way to stimulation. During this time period it is critical to introduce them to a variety of stimuli so that they can develop into the best version of themselves while still in a safe environment with their mother and siblings. This includes introducing them to tactical stimulation, thermal stimulation, and various spinal positions that may not otherwise occur in their daily lives. We make sure to handle our puppies at least once a day in order to help them recognize these stimuli and develop into amazing young dogs.

Studies involving these early stimulation exercises have shown that these puppies mature at faster rates and perform better in certain problem solving tests than their non-stimulated litter mates.

The U.S. Military started this program on their dogs and it soon spread to the dog world of breeders who were interested in breeding exceptional dogs as well. It became known as the “Super Dog” Program. For full article, see the link below. 

Puppy Culture incorporates this super dog program that we employ with our puppies. Puppies put through this program of neurological stimulation have been found to: 

  1. Have improved heart rate
  2. Stronger heart beats
  3. Stronger adrenal glands
  4. More tolerance to stress
  5. Greater resistance to disease

Other improvements included:

  1. Puppies were more active and exploratory
  2. Puppies were calmer during tests involving challenges with problem solving
  3. Puppies were calmer when faced with new situations and stimuli. 

For more information on the theory and procedures behind this practice, check out this article.

Puppy Nutrition

Our mothers nurse their puppies until they decide to wean them themselves. This is often by 7-9 weeks. However, when the mother begins signaling behaviors of weaning, then we begin to supplement with goat’s milk, but only following nursing sessions. Eventually, around the seventh week we start the puppies on a mixture of goats milk and raw beef, and a high-quality, holistic kibble. We use kinesiology, as instructed by Wendy Volhard and Kerry Brown, D.V.M., in their book Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, to choose the appropriate food for each individual litter.

For more information on natural rearing, we recommend an article called A complete Guide to Raising A Puppy Naturally by Dr. Peter Dobias, DVM.

Lifetime Immunity

We focus on lifetime immunity. To accomplish this we use homeopathic medicine called “nosodes” that support puppies in the development of antibodies against canine diseases. How does this work? Nosodes are homeopathic (super diluted) remedies made from diseased tissue. Now I’m not a doctor, but according to Basic Microbiology, sixth edition, nosodes work similar as to what happens when one catches a virus. Our body senses that it has been exposed via the mouth, sinuses, or skin and quickly begins the process of building a defense (antibodies) against it. In the case of nosodes, these are oral immunizations. Nosodes are a natural option for the process of building lifetime immunity against common puppy and adult dog diseases.

These nosodes do not contain thimerosal mercury derivative, polysorbate 80, ethylene oxide, ethylene glycol, sodium phosphate dibasic, monosodium glutamate, or aluminum hydroxide. There are no side-effects, no cancer causing agents, nor long-term side-effects. Here at Doodles & Poodles Naturally we go the extra mile for our puppies and dogs. Anything short of that we feel is unacceptable.

For more information on the pros and cons of puppy vaccinations, check out the articles below.

Hope for Correcting Hip Dysplasia

Does your dog live with hip dysplasia? Do you feel like there’s very little you can do? If so, you wouldn’t be alone. However, there’s a lot more we can do for dogs with hip dysplasia to support their health! After fifteen years of clinical experience, involving over two thousand cases with hip dysplasia Dr. Belfield found that, “When given supplements, they [dogs] are much less likely to develop hip dysplasia, spinal myelopathy, ruptured discs, viral diseases, and skin problems. They live healthier and longer.”

Take a recent story about Tosser, a male standard poodle who had been dealing with hip dysplasia. Tosser’s mom, Emma, was told Tosser had level 3 hips. This particular form of malnutrition to the hips is measured on a scale of 0-5, so 3 was smack in the middle. The owner had become suspect something was wrong when she noticed he started to run funny. His front legs would move normally, but he hopped with his back legs and they appeared somewhat stiff. Chasing ball with other dogs was when the hopping symptom was most noticeable. That was when Tosser would run slower than other dogs even though he was bigger than them and he also never leaped into the air for the ball like the other dogs did. 

Emma read everything she could find on the subject of hip dysplasia. It didn’t take long to learn that there are differing schools of thought. Although one school of thought accepts hip dysplasia as a genetic issue, there is not conclusive research providing evidence for this. Therefore, Emma’s Vet Tech suggested she read Wendell Belfield, DVM’s book on pet nutrition which provides a different school of thought on the subject.

In Belfield’s book he states that “the reigning myth – which unfortunately still clouds much of veterinary thinking to this day, is that hip dysplasia is an inherited condition…hip dysplasia is a condition related to deficient vitamin C and resultant poor collagen.” Belfield went on to say, “keep in mind there is little to no nutrition information taught in veterinary school, so they aren’t going to look at it from that angle. If your dog is not adequately nourished, or he comes from malnourished parent lines, he is more likely to develop bone and joint problems.”

This perspective had a lot of evidence behind it and it was enough for Emma to try out because she already knew was from unhealthy, malnourished parents. She always referred to him as her “rescue dog” even though he wasn’t from a shelter. She consulted with her holistic practitioner who suggested there may be an issue with Tosser’s ability to use vitamin C. The reasoning behind this? Tosser was already on a supplement program; yet, he developed symptoms of hip dysplasia anyway. Emma learned that some of the deworm chemicals and two of the canine vaccines, in susceptible animals, can interfere with their ability to manufacture or properly absorb vitamin C.

The next step was to give Tosser a vitamin C homeopathic remedy in the hope of re-establishing his body’s natural ability to use the vitamin. She was shocked and elated with the results. Within 2 weeks he was showing marked improvement in his ability to move his back legs. No more hopping. She increased his vitamin C supplementation and a few days later he was running almost normal on all four legs and doing much better in keeping up with the other dogs. She also noticed he was more assertive when playing with the other dogs and would even steal the ball from them. This was new. Another week after that, Tosser leapt into the air after a ball for the first time.

Emma’s Vet says that his hips have made a significant improvement and if he had to make a guess, they have improved from level 3 to level 1. Emma said she continues to see improvement almost daily, not just in his hips but also how he lays in his kennel, how fast he runs after the other dogs, and in his stamina. Tosser’s legs are not the only noticeable change.

Emma also pointed out that before this program, Tosser would never bark and would rarely engage. Everyone just assumed he was shy. Now he not only barks, but he also nudges Emma to pet him. Tosser’s repeat ear infections have nearly ceased and his appetite has improved. It has been a win- win all around and Emma reports being so grateful to God for putting Belfield’s book in her hands!